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Downtown, Midtown, Corktown -- there's no shortage of new restaurants there.
"Food of a different caliber than you'd expect." (Facebook photo)
So, it's nice to shine some light on a new place beyond that space.
Jane Slaughter of Metro Times reviews River Bistro, a Caribbean-soul restaurant that opened in August at 18456 Grand River Ave. in Rosedale Park in northwest Detroit, and gives chef-owner Maxcel Hardy a big thumbs-up:
He's serving food of a different caliber than you expect in a "Low Country and Caribbean" restaurant that does 75 to 80 percent of its business as carry-out. Meatloaf, mac and cheese, two kinds of wings, two kinds of ribs, a fish fry — it doesn't sound like chef-driven food, but try it.
For instance, Hardy makes his own mango lemonade, using mango purée; it's a perfect blend of the two flavors.
His jerk sauce uses guava purée, ginger, garlic, thyme, and one Scotch bonnet in each batch. (I couldn't believe how easily he gave up the recipe; I guess that's community spirit.)
To the degree possible, everything is locally sourced, like the Jamaican-recipe ginger beer brewed in Eastern Market.
If those carry-out customers would sit down and stay a bit, they'd find a welcoming place with 16 stools at high tables, cloth napkins, a hook for your purse and professional service. An outsize painting on one wall shows an island girl with a flower in her hair.
♦ See the menu.
This ackee and saltfish entree, a Caribbean tradition, is among the menu selections from Chef Maxcel Hardy.
