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In the past, when you mentioned Hazel Park and culinary delights, you were probably talking about the Louie's Pizza on Dequindre Road.
But the new restaurant Mabel Gray at 23825 John R is changing that, Christopher Cook writes in Hour magazine:
Chef-owner James Rigato’s decision to open Mabel Gray here gives Hazel Park something new and special, the likes of which it probably hasn’t seen for years, if ever. . . .
On the day we visited, the menu had merely four appetizers, one salad, one soup, and four main courses. A tasting menu — a growing trend in which you put your evening entirely in the hands of the chef — is also available. With this option, Rigato delivers from eight to 10 consecutive small courses to your table. He changes courses daily, depending on the season and what his providers come up with. . . .
Masterful cooking is an orchestration in which the use of flavors are treated very much the way a conductor uses instruments — asking a string section for more gravitas or emphasis while restraining the wind instruments.
Rigato clearly likes his role and produces some masterful dishes on this tiny menu, which did not have one item that missed a beat.
