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Nancy Lopez, a second-generation Detroit food entrepreneur, is profiled in Tostada Magazine as "the mastermind behind the growing chain of El Parian taco trucks."
The family-owned trucks are at Springwells (just off I-75), at Waterman and Dix, and on West Vernor Highway. (Facebook photos)
Her business vision and culinary approach reflect "the more innovative direction younger, first-generation Mexican-Americans are taking with the food scene locally," writes Serena Maria Daniels, co-founder, editor and publisher of the year-old food and culture media outlet. She places Lopez among those who're "redefining Detroiters' understanding of what Mexican food can be," in contrast to "the generations-old establishments along Bagley in Mexicantown."
The chain’s success is also a sign that despite concerns over gentrification in the barrio, businesses like El Parian are working to not just maintain a stronghold in Latinx-ownership, but to continue elevating it.
The family-run business in Southwest Detroit, launched around 2010 with one truck, now has an outdoor taqueria at 1633 Lawndale St. and "four trailers that dot several street corners throughout the neighborhood." It also has a special events vehicle and a temporary permit for a burger truck being tested on West Vernor Highway in the 3800 block.
Avocado tacos from El Parian.
The name, suggested by Lopez's mother, comes from a vibrant plaza outside Guadalajara, Mexico, the family's roots. Lopez's parents bought a food truck after coming to Detroit, and her father -- a construction worker -- managaed it on weekends.
With appetitie-stimulating language, Daniels describes what's served:
On any given summer afternoon, lines are sure to be wrapped around these trucks and for good reason. El Parian’s tacos al pastor are arguably the best in the city.
The delectable pork is marinated in a blend of chilies, spices, and pineapple. Slow-cooked on a trompo and an open flame until all the flavor is caramelized, the result is a tender meat full of flavor that’s both picoso and slightly sweet. When you order a plate, the taquero behind the counter shaves a bed of that thinly sliced protein upon freshly-made corn tortillas and tops it with a smidge of piña that’s also flame-cooked on the spit.
Lopez and her husband/business partner, Ramon "Wicho" Diaz, have three children.
They're developing a fifth mobile eatery called Wicho’s Burgers. Its menu features shrimp, turkey, Mexican and Hawaiian burgers. "For fries, diners can go with the choripapas, loaded with chorizo, lettuce, avocado and chimichurri sauce," Daniels writes, making us hungry again.
-- Alan Stamm
