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Molly Abraham, the dean of local food critics, has plenty good things to say about The Peterboro, the new American-Chinese restaurant at 420 Peterboro Street, just off Cass Avenue, that recently opened in Detroit's former Chinatown.
Abraham writes in The Detroit News:
The Peterboro offers a contemporary version of American-Chinese fare in the hands and imagination of young chef Brion Wong, and it’s a knockout. Stylish, robustly spiced dishes meant for sharing are served in an upbeat setting that takes the direction given it by the menu and interprets it in the crisp, clean, colorful décor. . . .
Almond boneless chicken
The dishes that emerge from Wong’s kitchen include an outstanding scallop crudo — yes, that means uncooked — in a delicate sauce of ponzu, bean paste and sesame that doesn’t overpower the delicate slices of scallop, probably my favorite of six dishes sampled.
Another is the salt and pepper shrimp, huge, head-on crustaceans coated in a spicy mix that may have even the less adventuresome among us eating the head and all. Mom’s roast pork requires some chewing, but has a delicious sweet and savory flavor from its honey and hoisin glaze. And who doesn’t love crab Rangoon, at least this version, crunchy wonton skins filled with scallions, cream cheese and crabmeat? All of these are on the small plates list.
From the large plates list — which includes the chef’s version of almond boneless chicken — we chose Mapo tofu, the soft, custard-like bean curd nicely balanced with shiitake mushrooms. It is one of four dishes marked with the symbol for spicy, and it was definitely that thanks to Szechuan spices and chili oil.
